Tuesday, January 3, 2023

Konnichiwa!

This unfortunately represents the sum total of my working Japanese, which is a real problem because Amy received a Fulbright to conduct eyewitness research in Japan in the spring.  When Amy originally approached me about spending four months in Japan, it seemed like the kind of situation in a marriage where you can get a great deal of credit for being flexible without much in the way of costs because your partner is almost certainly not going to get the grant.  I always look forward to questions like “can I apply for a grant to spend the winter volunteering to count caribou in the North Dakota badlands?”  Absolutely.  In fact, let’s apply for a year!  I suggest you be on the lookout for these opportunities in your own marriages.


But you should know that every so often it comes back to bite you.  Your partner gets that grant.  Then you have to suck it up and download a language app that proves you’re less smart than you thought you were.


The ostensible purpose of Fulbright is to send reasonable Americans to foreign places as ambassadors of goodwill.  They sent the Douglasses.  


Read those last two lines aloud.  If that isn’t already the preview voiceover for a B horror movie, it should be.  But I suspect we are talking about a new genre here.  Documentary Horror.  You know, something that would make people say ‘I know it’s real because it’s a documentary but … there is NO WAY that’s real’ and ‘it’s just really hard to watch.’  A mild mannered, self-effacing forensic psychologist trapped between two thirteen year olds watching reruns of My Little Pony on a fourteen hour flight.


In Japan, we are renting a “cozy” three bedroom closet.  In such an intimate space, I’m concerned that our family dynamic (which you could call feisty or explosive depending on how close you are sitting to us) will not mesh well with the more contemplative Japanese culture.  I usually think this when Tessa and Lily are shrieking at each other over who used up the last of the acne medication or, sometimes, who looked at whom in a certain way.  So I’ve spent the last month hissing “pretend we’re in an apartment” or “pretend we’re a different family.”  That’s what I do.


Lily continues to vie against Amy for top perfectionist in the family, and she will routinely hyperventilate at the prospect of getting second in anything.  In an effort to teach Lily that failure is invaluable as a learning experience, we mandated that she enter a state wide fiction writing contest for ages 10 to 18.  I told Amy there’s nothing like a cold, two line rejection letter to help you realize that the best bet for your writing career is Christmas letters.  Well, Lily won the damn thing and is now the sole professional author of the family.  Her story was, as Stephen King is thought to have said, too scary to read aloud.  I’m not certain what her next story is about, but the other day she did say to me ‘Dad, I’d be really sad if you were murdered.’  If you dare to read her story, it’s at the Telling Room website.  


In addition to her writing, Lily has been working on her awareness of environmental issues.  This fall, she asked for a glass of milk and I finished one carton and opened another one.  As I was about to pour the milk into her glass, she shouted “STOP!”  When I asked for clarification, she said “if you use different cartons … the milk will be from different cows.”  Feeling a surge of guilt about my inadequate education on industrial dairy farming, I demanded “did you seriously think they would just milk each cow directly into the carton?”  It turns out that she did.  When I proceeded to explain that every milk carton contains milk from many different cows, she gagged and swore off all dairy.  I have neglected to explain the same is true for yogurt, cream, ice cream, etc.


I’m sure many of you are concerned about Tessa’s medical condition (the acute crushinitis I mentioned in last year’s letter).  It became manifest in the form of a towering and monosyllabic thirteen year old whose name rhymes with Panthony.  I remember last year when Tessa was railing against our draconian moratorium on dating.  Her exact quote was “all my problems would be solved if I could just date.”  I’m not proud that I said “Tess, that’s when your problems will start.”  Now, I’m not saying I’m prophetic or about to start a religion, but I do think Tess has been surprised that the lifting of the moratorium did not coincide with a stampede of suitors.  Let’s just say that Panthony is slow playing the courtship.


In addition to crushes, Tessa has continued her pursuit of dominance of soccer, racquet sports, and a game I call “we just want dad to lose.”  We play it every time we play a card game or a board game or a sport or talk about our goals in life.


My family has started to say outrageous things to “make the Christmas letter.”  I keep having to say, ‘I’m not a shill’ and ‘this isn’t propaganda’ and ‘the letter is about how I feel about real things.’  Tess will usually respond by asking “are you going to describe my hair as honey blond or ash blond?”  Lily usually doesn’t say anything because she’s reading.


As we frantically check things off our lists, I’m realizing that I need to learn a few other important phrases in Japanese.  Most travelers would want to know how to say “where is the bathroom?” or “is that a noodle or a tentacle?” but I suspect I will need some specialized language, such as “we need to hire a juvenile defense attorney,” “that is too much money,” and “what are the detention center visiting hours?”

I just discovered an old draft blog post from our first time in Tokyo.  I'm posting it now for context.

Imagine being in a new city.

Now, imagine that you have suffered a debilitating stroke and, as a result, you tend to wander to the left.  Oh, also, you can't read.

Now, imagine that you've also suffered a gun shot wound to the leg, resulting in massive blood loss that impairs thinking and mobility.

Now, imagine that there is a mosquito with an American accent constantly buzzing in your ear telling you that they've done nothing interesting AT ALL since coming to Tokyo and they just want to go back to LEWISTON where there are PLAYGROUNDS and THINGS THAT ARE INTERESTING TO DO.  (As an aside, I often find myself fantasizing about two simple things: locks and yards).

This is what it is like to be in Tokyo with six year olds.

Yes, I know, most of you are thinking "Shut the hell up you unemployed forty something Game of Thrones loving psychologist."  Fine, say that.  Just don't tell me what happened in the first two episodes.  Still, I would continue to advocate for an "extreme reality television event" that involved traveling around the world with our children.  Participants of the The Amazing Race would piss themselves.

I should also send a shout out (also known as a CONSTANT SCREAM OF DESPAIR AND HATRED) to Jetstar, which, despite their best efforts, got us here safely.  If you ever have a chance to travel via Jetstar - don't.  It's hard to imagine where to start, but I'll start with the innocuous sounding "baggage allowance."  After you Google 7 kg, try to fit that into your carry-on luggage, remembering that you have to pack snacks, books, and toys for the six year old set.  It is impossible.  Amy and I spent a ridiculous amount of time weighing our backpacks and carry-on luggage in a fruitless attempt to get down to 7kg.

That was the best part of flying Jetstar.  The worst is that they require you to gather all of your baggage after the domestic leg of the flight and cart it to the international counter - WHICH DOESN'T open until 3 hours before your flight.  Which, thanks to our overly conservative travel agent, was three and a half hours away.  At such times, you learn to really nurse a pint of Guinness so you can have a barstool.

As for flying ... I learned something very important which I will pass on to you now for free.  If you ever ... EVER have the good fortune to have a flight with two empty seats next to you - IMMEDIATELY move into the center seat and take up as much room as you can.   If you don't do this, it is very likely that a hipster wanna be in his forties from Australia will promptly move up several seats and immediately lay out on both empty seats, ass pointed towards you.  When this happened, I felt a wave of deep self-loathing for not having the wherewithal to claim the seats myself.  In retaliation, I made a LOT of noise opening my Jetstar Spinach Ravioli and laughed a LOT while watching the Revenant.  That DiCaprio does crack me up.

Still, the hipster slept through it all.  I considered taking a picture but I frankly felt bad for my camera.

And then there was Tokyo.  Ah, Tokyo.

Our hotel had two rooms for us but no adjoining door.  Amy and I had a plan that involved putting the girls in one room and being able to talk to each other in the adjoining room.  Adjoining is really the key word.  Our travel agent apparently believes that adjacent is a synonym to adjoining.  Although, similar, they are not synonyms.  So instead, I'm drinking a glass of a $3 bottle of sauvingnon blanc purchased at a 7-Eleven in the dark while Lily snores.  This is not how I envisioned experiencing Tokyo.  However, the $3 bottle of wine is really quite good.

Our girls were troopers the first night.  Tessa helped us navigate the largest city in Japan with an unerring sense of direction.  She was like Amy's seeing-eye dog.  Both kids tried food at an Udon restaurant which Amy and I loved.  The second night, they demanded Subway.  In a city of 88,000 restaurants, Lily and Tessa ate Subway sandwiches with lettuce, tomato, and mayo.  

There is no word in Japanese to describe my feeling of sadness.


 In a pro-blogger move (or maybe an amateur blogger but pro ADHDer) I'm going to put up a post I wrote a few years ago and recycling our 2022 Christmas letter.  Look at that.  Three posts the first day!